How to Read a Threading Draft With Repeats
Weaving Hints & Tips
How to Read Weaving Drafts
How to Read a Weaving Draft
Drafts for weaving contain three parts
- Threading draft
- Tie-upward
- Treadling sequence
Together they show how to thread the heddles, tie up the treadles, and weave the fabric row by row.
Threading Draft
The Threading Draft shows the order for threading the warp ends in the heddles. It is always written horizontally with 1 row for each shaft (harness).
When the loom is threaded gear up to weave and you are sitting at the loom holding the threading draft, the threading and the draft match. No matter how the loom got threaded, the left side of the draft matches the left side of the threaded heddles. Shaft 1 is closest to you and shaft 4 is farthest away.
The usual style to read the draft is from right to left, starting from the tie-up corner, but it can exist read in either direction.
The yarns are threaded one at a time through the shafts. The numbers 1, 2, 3, 4 in the threading typhoon merely refer to the shaft number and could be replaced by symbols or by letters indicating colors.
Repeats are shown past brackets. The draft above shows that 12 warp ends are to be repeated a full of five times before proceeding. The total number of warp ends shown here equal 77.
Tie-Up
At the correct corner of the draft, the intersection of the threading draft and the treadling sequence, the Necktie-Upward shows which shafts (aligning with threading draft) are tied to each treadle (pedal). Each vertical colum of the necktie-upward and treadling sequence shows i treadle.
The Bone in the tie-upward testify that the shaft rises when the treadle is pressed. Thus the first treadle on the left in the draft beneath lifts both shafts 1 and 2, the side by side treadle lifts shafts ii and 3, and then on.
Sometimes tie-ups show Xs rather than Os. Xs show that the shaft sinks when the trealde is pressed. One way to remember this is the bubbling (O) bladder and anchors (X) sink. To convert a tie-up with Xs to ane with Os, add together an O to each open square. Together the Xs and Os fill all the squares of the necktie-up.
Treadling Sequence
The Treadling Sequence is the cake of vertical columns at the right side of the draft. Information technology shows the order to press the treadles to weave the fabric row by row.
Some treadling sequences are written downwards from the necktie-up (like writing a grocery list), but the tie-ups in Weaver's Craft are written upwards considering each row woven on the loom is placed above the previous row.
In the draft shown above, starting at the tie-up and reading upwardly line by line, the first row is woven past pressing the fifth treadle from the left. The second row is woven by pressing the sixth treadle. These two rows are repeated, and the following row is woven with treadle ane.
Brackets
Brackets are used to shorten the written data by showing repeated sections. Complete the total number of repeats for each bracket before proceeding. In the typhoon below, brackets enclosing four warp ends each are repeated 5 times each. Each subclass shows a full of 20 ends.
Brackets may be nested with smaller brackets within larger ones. E'er complete the smaller brackets with the number of repeats shown earlier proceeding. When the finish of the larger subclass is reached, get back to the beginning of the larger bracket for the next repeat, remembering to repeat each of the smaller brackets inside as well.
In the draft shown below, a larger bracket with 7 repeats encloses two smaller brackets separated past 4 warp ends. I repeat of the larger bracket shows 44 ends and the entire threading draft shows 325 ends.
Floating Selvedges
Floating Selvedges are the concluding warp end on each side of the material allowed to bladder rather than be threaded through a heddle. They are woven in obviously weave by manipulating the shuttle as information technology enters and exits the shed. The easiest fashion to weave them is to push the thread downward with the tip of the shuttle when entering the shed and assuasive the shuttle to get out below the thread at the opposite side. Each row is woven this mode, over upon entering the shed and nether upon exiting (in alphabetical order).
Some threading drafts indicate that the showtime and final warp ends are to be converted to floating selvedges. This simplifies the calculation for the total number of warp ends.
If desired, the floating selvedges may be woven nether/over on every row, holding downward the terminal thread as your hand waits to receive the shuttle. For some weave structures, floating selvedges may be woven over/over on one row and nether/under on the side by side.
Warp Color Order
The Warp Colour Order shows the placement of colour for each warp terminate in the threading draft. It matches the threading draft, left side matching left side, etc.
Individual colors are listed at the left side. Follow the guild from ane side to the other as you wind the warp on the warping lath and/or as you thread the heddles.
Weft Colour Order
The Weft Color Lodge is occasionally written similar the Warp Color Gild, but commonly the colors are shown in the Treadling Sequence by a letter corresponding to a colour.
Heddle Count
A table is oftentimes placed most the draft showing the heddle count, the number of heddles needed on each shaft. Earlier starting to thread the heddles, double cheque to make certain there are enough on each shaft, using the center heddles to keep the weight evenly balanced on each side of the shaft.
Use Tabby
Tabby is plain weave interspersed row past row between pattern shots. If all the pattern shots in the fabric were removed, a plain-weave textile would remain.
In Treadling Sequences, the term Use Tabby means that only the design rows are shown. It is understood that each pattern row volition be followed past a row of plainly weave, commonly with a second shuttle wound with yarn matching the warp.
To remember which of the 2 rows of plain weave to weave adjacent, start the weaving by pressing the left patently-weave treadle when the shuttle is inbound the shed from the left. Thereafter, the treadle for the next row of plain weave volition be on the same side as the thread leading to the shuttle.
Tips for Catching and Preventing Draft Errors
The information given with the draft allows for several ways to verify its accuracy also as your understanding of the details. Double-check the draft and all its details to familiarize yourself with it before winding the warp. Sometimes rewriting the typhoon and treadling in your own way helps equally well.
- The total number of warp ends should lucifer your count of the number of ends in the threading draft. The heddle count may also be verified past counting the ends on each shaft in the threading draft.
- Wait for departures from the regularity of the pattern. If the threading alternates odd and even threads, two odd ends together or two even threads together probably signals an mistake.
Weaving for Cut Apart
Placemats, napkins, and towels are some of the many handwoven fabrics woven as a single length on the loom but meant to be cut into sections later on. If you know where you'll want to cutting, hither's a skillful way to prepare the place.
After the first piece, weave two rows of contrasting yarn—2 rows because the valley between them forms an indentation that's piece of cake to follow with a scissors. Plain weave provides a articulate path for cutting, although any two treadles that lift opposite shafts work well.
When you are ready to separate the pieces, stitch on top of the first yarn of each section, next to the contrasting yarn. Run up up one side, plough the fabric, and stitch down the other side of the contrasting pair. Stitching before cutting prevents the final rows of each section from loosening.
Use a zigzag or straight stitch. If you choose a zigzag, set up its width so that information technology encloses only one yarn and sew with that yarn centered in the presser foot opening. If you cull a direct run up, set the length slightly shorter than the number of ends per inch so that the needle pierces every warp end every bit well equally the weft that the stitching follows.
For a firmer edge, stitch again next to but non on top of the previous stitching.
When y'all cut betwixt the two contrasting yarns, these rows ravel out, but bits of them may stick if the yarn is caught by the sewing motorcar needle. If you've sewed evenly, they ravel out easily leaving a clean edge with a very tiny fringe that helps taper the cut edge.
Making a Weaving Guide
Use a weaving guide for each of your projects to make weaving more enjoyable.
A weaving guide is a strip of greenbacks register paper marked with the weaving measurements and pinned to one edge of the fabric on the loom. You tin purchase rolls of cash register tape at function supply stores.
To make a weaving guide, summate the finished length of the piece, including hems. So add shrinkage to determine the woven length on the loom. For case, a towel with a finished length of 28" plus a ane" hem at each finish equals 30". Add ten% for shrinkage and the woven length on the loom is 33".
Cut a length of greenbacks register paper longer than the project length, about xl" long for this example. At the beginning end, write the name of the project and the date. Then depict a starting line. Mensurate 33" and draw an catastrophe line.
Attach the weaving strip to 1 side of your weaving with two long pins, well-nigh four" autonomously. Leapfrog the pins as y'all weave, taking out the first pin and re-pinning information technology close to the vicious of the cloth while the other pin keeps the strip attached to the weaving. Both ends of the strip are unattached. If the strip is very long, wind up one end and spike it with a paper clip. When yous're finished with the weaving, scroll the strip with the project name and engagement on the outside, fasten with a paper clip, and keep it for reference for time to come projects.
There are many advantages to using a weaving guide. Let's say that you want the two ends of the towel to lucifer. Fold the strip in one-half, matching the starting and catastrophe line to find the center of the towel. As you weave, mark the strip with repeats and colour changes. During weaving, when you lot reach the eye of the towel, remove the guide and transfer the marks to the other one-half of the strip. Reattach the strip and weave to the end of the guide. With very little effort, you lot've woven a towel with matching ends!
Using a weaving guide for every project allows y'all to weave faster and with more confidence. It helps ensure that your projection turns out the correct length and keeps track of your pattern when you marker treadling and color repeats. Once yous try a weaving guide, y'all'll wonder how you always wove without it.
Source: http://www.weaverscraft.com/hints.html
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